You need some tools. Go out and buy yourself a volt test light for testing circuits. It’s really kind of hard to check anything without these instruments. These instruments will go a long way in keeping your jeep running in the future. In this part of the test the clip lead from the test light is connected to the – side of the battery or a good known ground. If it lights up then the ground is good. Now connect the test clip to this point. It might be blown.
Is this a full size blazer? Find your timing advance wire and disconect it, get a timing light and hook it on 1 cylinder, make sure vehicle is warmed up to operating temp and ac is off. Loosen of the distrubutor bolt just enough you can turn your dist. Start your engine use your timing light point it at the degree meter, wherever your white line you marked is at that is where your timing is, if your timing isn’t whithin specs then move your distruber slowly till the timing mark lines up where it sopposed to be.
COM and acquaint yourself with the timing of the engine.
For safety reasons, all MECHANICAL fuel pressure gauges must be mounted outside of the vehicle, unless you use a fuel pressure isolator. In low pressure applications ( PSI) we offer fuel pressure gauges that include the isolator and 4 ft. of braided line between the gauge and the isolator.
Your hub for horsepower Get first access to hit shows like Roadkill and Dirt Every Day Join free for 14 days now Relays are typically energized through an operator-controlled dash-mounted switch, or by remotely mounted pressure-, vacuum-, or linkage-actuated switches. The diagrams on these pages show just some of many typical relay uses, as well as how to hook up the universal ISO relay sold by M. Enterprises, Jacobs Electronics, and other electrical suppliers.
Using a relay as a heavy-duty remote-control device ensures delivery of full power to high-load electrical components: Your headlights will burn brighter, your electric fan will run faster, and fuel pumps will operate at their peak efficiency. Voltage drop at the dash harness is reduced, and overall switch and electrical system performance and longevity are enhanced. It can be used to control both normally open NO and normally closed NC circuits, or it can act as a change-over device to switch current from one user to another.
The low-current switch controlling the circuit sends current through the pull-in winding terminals 85 and This energizes an electromagnet that pulls a movable arm, closing the NO high-load circuit 30 to When the controlling switch stops current from passing through the magnetic winding, spring action pulls the movable arm in the opposite direction, completing the NC high-load circuit 30 to 87a.
Even though the ISO relays are rated at 20 amps for this application, experience has shown a large fan motor will overheat a single relay. Installing two relays in parallel removes stress loads from each relay and improves reliability with redundant parts. One relay per fan is sufficient for systems with two small fans.
Temperature gauge does not read correctly with single wire temperature sender. Speedhut line temperature gauges have a single yellow wire running from gauge to sender. For the sender and gauge to operate correctly, the sender must be threaded into something that is grounded to same grounding source as the Temperature Gauge. The ground path for the sender is the sender’s mounting threads. Use teflon paste on the sender threads to make a good seal while maintaining a good ground connection.
Jun 03, · I am trying to wire up my fuel pump and I got that witht eh gray and blakc wires and I am trying to get my aftermarket gauge to work and I cant seem to get a reading out of it in ohms witht the purple wire does the black with a stripe have to be grounded for it to work.
You don’t have an auxiliary tank – you have a refuel tank. Normally, refuel tanks are used to haul fuel to other vehicles, such as tractors or off-road equipment. But it can also be used to haul extra fuel for your pickup. It sounds like your refuel tank is hooked up to be legal per DOT rules. It works, so love it. But if you want to convert it to an auxiliary tank, it’s not simple. You cannot simply plumb in a gravity feed into the main tank. That’s a DOT no no. The best way to hook up an auxliary tank and be legal is to buy the tank and other stuff from Transfer Flow’s Trax-II.
Then you have an integrated system and your fuel gauge will work right.
Unsportsmanshiplike Conduct – There’s a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater s are fools. And when there’s prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted. Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family, be protective of your equipment!
While at the pulls, keep an eye on your killswitch plug!
AMP gauges at the dash are troublesome. They should be by-passed, and then install a VOLT gauge. by Mark Hamilton But when the electrical system will be up-graded with more powerful alternators and more accessories, the AMP gauge should be removed, and the “main power system” should be modified. , and temp or fuel gauges.
Not a happy camper as I see my future sitting at a dealership!!!!! December 6th, at I replaced the cable and it stopped after hearing scratchy sounds in the speakers as cable went bad? Its hard to say,, but they wont be much help in trying to identify it- December 9th, at 3: The Stabilitrack light comes one, I loose engine power it even states on my system that power reduction if I stop it will shake. If I turn it off and back on the light will go away and just randomly while driving come back on.
Stopped by the shop as my engine light is on, they pulled the code and say it is the throttle body. December 16th, at 1: Low nad behold, over the warranty and just purchased it less than a year ago. My Stabilitrak light comes on, along with the malfunction light and I get power rudction also. Funny thing is, my husband bought a Silverado and in 2 months his did exactly the same thing a year ago. His was covered under warranty and the dealership stated it was a CO2 sensor.
The engine power reduction is so dangerous when your driving down the interstate.
Because that corroded chunk of metal has lived a hard life, fuel pumps wear out just like everything else with moving parts, and doing it now in the off-season sure beats going lean or breaking down next summer. However, your choices are many. This is that intel.
Fuel gauge S terminal has a pink wire and runs to the fuel sender. Fuel gauge A terminal is the 12V side of the jumper/regulator strap. Fuel gauge I terminal has a red wire and is the 12 V ignition hot wire.
It fell out of the 20 psi diverter valve in the roof of the reservoir. I have read of several other guys seeing the same thing when they open up the reservoir. Apparently 20 psi is enough to both open the valve and blow the O ring off its seat into the reservoir; then the return spring on the valve is so strong that once the pressure is released and the O ring is no longer holding the valve back, the spring jerks the valve stem back through the seat up into the valve body.
The valve stem is conical and so is the valve seat. The end of the valve stem is just slightly wider than the narrowest part of the seat – so when it pops up into the hole, it can’t be pushed back through. That 20 psi diverter valve is not rebuildable as the valve seat apparently is welded into the valve body; the parts are inaccessible. I finally got it back on but I had to shave the topmost diameter of the valve seat a little bit to allow the conical valve stem to pass back down into the valve seat, and pushing the valve down through the valve body from above with a piece of coat hangar wire was really tricky and time consuming.
Finally I melted a little hole in the bottom of the valve stem with a heated safety pin and then bent a fish hook shape into the safety pin, jammed it into the hole and pulled. With pushing from the top with the hanger wire and pulling from the bottom with the hook I finally overcame the force of the 20psi spring enough to get enough room to push the O ring back onto its seat groove.
I buggered the valve bore for the return valve trying to get at the top of the 20psi valve with the coat hanger.
Installing a fuel pressure gauge is not difficult. It just needs a systematic approach. Use the instructions and precautions listed below to install you fuel pressure gauge. The application of a fuel pressure gauge is across all vehicles that use a fuel-injection system. This includes power-boats, nearly every contemporary car model and commercial vehicles like trucks.
The path of the fuel includes a fuel-filtration line that is needed for cleaning the fuel.
The pointer of whatever gauge you are checking should be at the position shown in the upper portion of the diagram at right. Next, take a short wire and connect to sender terminal and ground terminal (shorting sender terminal to ground).
Being able to check fuel pressure vacuum can help an owner diagnose a future engine running problem or allow him to monitor the condition of the fuel filter in an on-going basis. This not only can save you a lot of frustration in the high-stakes game of vehicle service, but can save you money on fuel filters by not replacing them till the fuel restriction gauge tells you it’s time. For whatever reason, you can get a bad load of fuel at any fuel station, or you can be exposed to poor fuel quality on a chronic basis.
Unless you have a fuel pressure gauge, we recommend changing the fuel filter at the recommended service interval up to 15, miles or whenever your engine experiences a running problem, no matter how long it’s been since the last service interval. This is part of why a fuel pressure gauge is important. Over the course of your diesel ownership, a fuel pressure gauge will save you money by not having to guess about the condition of your fuel filter.
This DTC indicates that the difference between the actual fuel rail pressure and the commanded rail pressure is greater than 20 MPa. While this could also indicate a “Large Fuel Leak Detected”, which is related to excessive fuel return flow bad fuel injector s or loose fuel return fittings , this could also indicate a restricted fuel filter or fuel supply line. This code could occur when more than 5″ of vacuum is present at the fuel pressure test port shown below.
The KD Fuel Pressure Gauge can be indispensable when troubleshooting these and other fuel related problems.
AMP gauges at the dash are troublesome. They should be by-passed, and then install a VOLT gauge. With normal but frequent use, most of these Dodge trucks will have electrical wiring problems. The first to fail were often the trucks equipped with factory air conditioning. The air conditioning system adds a significant electrical load. The additional current flow when using the air conditioning and increased resistance with heat will break down the weak areas more quickly.
The first is to remove the stock Oil sender unit for the warning light on your dash, most cars this sensor is not connected to your PCM and removing it will not affect anything.
No Power Dodge Ram 5. Other concern was poor shifting. I took the truck for a test drive as I graphed the data with my Snap-on Modis. There were no noticeable power or performance issues under light load. The low power seemed to lag a little bit after revving up. If you got on the throttle hard and held it there the power would be there, suddenly drop off, but the rpm would stay up even though all the power was gone.